We arrived in Dharamsalla (actually Mcleod Gang-the upper town) 6 days ago. Our trip here began in Pushkar where we left town just as a torrential monsoon rain was arriving. It got kinda scarry and I got pretty freaked when the rain was coming down in sheets and the Ambassador car we were in had no functioning wipers. The situation is bad enough on American roads where there are lanes and people actually stay within them. But here in India where "road chicken" is how traffic is done, I totally freaked out and made a bit of a scene. I calmed down when the rain subsided some and I became convinced the road was not nearly so heavily travelled as others we had been on.
The taxi got us to our train connection at Merta Road Station in Rajasthan in plenty of time, we were two hours early, and the train was on time. Our boarding was the best yet. The car was actually marked with the number; we were the only ones boarding that car; and no one was getting off as we were getting on. Just when you think you can predict something about Indian trains they fool you.
There was a nice young Indian man who was the only other person in our compartment. He was in the Indian Air Force and worked in Pathankot (our train destination and connection for the bus trip the rest of the way) as an air traffic controller. He sort of took us under his wing, showing us where we were on the map during our 19 hour journey, and later took us to the bus station via a shortcut saving a couple hundred meters, which with the weight of our bags was most welcome.
When we got to the bus station we discovered there was no bus Dharamsalla for another three hours, but there was a local bus to Guggal, 18 km away. We boarded with me maiking a big deal about "going to Guggal", "is this bus going to Guggal" "were going to Guggal", stupid stuff like that. I just liked the sound of Guggal, and by that time I was tired and a bit delerious.
Interestingly the ticket taker on the bus looked kinda like a dark skinned version of my ex father in-law, Don Nichols. He was thin frame and face, fine features and glasses that were exactly the same. He also joked around with the regulars on the bus in a manner not unlike Don's. Small world. I told him of the resemblance and he laughed and shook my hand in a sort of bonding jesture.When we deboarded the bus in Guggal, a swarm of mini-van type taxis litterally swooped down upon us. We didn't even have all our bags off before they were calling out to us "Hello sir. Dharamsalla?". Seeing I was in a buyers market I went from cab to cab getting qoutes, took the lowest bid and 30 minutes later we were here. All totalled the trip from Pushkar took about 26 hours.
Needeless to say the next day we were not worth much and so did not do a whole lot. But we did manage to get tickets to a cultural show for the next evening at the Tibetan Institute for the Performing Arts (TIPA). That show was a lot of fun. It lasted nearly two hours with a 10 minute intermission. All the performers wore elaborate Tibetan costumes and sang and danced to traditional folk songs.
On July 6th, the Dalai Lama's birthday, Courtney and I went to Tsuglagkhang, the compound containing his residence and temple, to see what was going on. There again were many performers in traditional elaborate costumes singing and dancing. Unfortunately we could get no where within site of the stage to watch, but we could hang around in the open area behind where the stage was and so got to see them rehearsing and posing for pictures.
While we were there we met a Tibetan Buddhist monk who asked where we were from and then said "follow me" in a sort of authorative tone. We complied and shortly found ourselves sitting in his tiny room eating Tibetan cookies and drinking butter tea. After several minutes of struggling small talk, he got to what seemed to be the point of his hospitality. He showed us a picture of a young Tibetan refugee whom he had taken as a student. The letter with the picture xeroxed on it said that the boy was in need of sponsorship and that any amount contributed would be appreciated. I gave as generously as I felt I could afford, and the nmonk thanked me. Then, as swiftly as we were invited, we were politely ushered out saying "today, very busy, must go now". We left with mixed feelings of, gratitude for the opportunity to be in the monks private quarters sharing food and drink and, wonder "had be been had?" We decided to see it positively and I still am gratefull. I think the funds are being put to good use.
Most of the rest of our stay has been enjoying the beautifull mountain air and scenery. It is much cooler here than anywhere we've been in India. There are evergreen trees and lush grassy terraces that can be seen from the privacy of our wonderful corner room with big windows on two sides.
The weather has been better too. It has rained a little. The night before last though we awoke to a fantastic electrical storm that rumbled and roared for more than 25 minutes. The flashes were distant and behind clouds but they light up the countryside with the frequency of a neon light with it's ballast going out. We sat mesmerized with the curtains opened and watched the whole scene from the warmth of our room. The streets flooded and the next day we were curious to see what had washed away.
Forturnately nothing significant was lost, and in fact the rain seemed to wash the streets and the air. Yesterday we actually had sunshine and clean cool air for much of the day. It was great.
Writing from a CyberCafe not 100 meters from His Holiness the Dalai Lama's residence and temple compound in Daramshalla, Himachal Pradesh, India, we are nearing the end of our Indian adventure. We did not get a chance to meet His Holiness in apublic audience as we hoped but we have had a great time with each other and within ourselves. I'm sure the effects of this journey will shape us and touch us in ways that we are not yet even aware of.
For me I am so grateful to have had this amount and quality of time with my beautiful and brilliant daughter before she heads of for college and begins making her own life. | 
